It actually rained during the night and even shortly in the morning … so i had to pack up a wet tent ⛺️

Made my last tea and off for the last 21km.

Was glad when I could finally leave the Feteresso Forest where heavy logging was going on combined with a closure of exactly the road and path of where I wanted to go … so I ignored the signs … not sure what else I could have done except for a long detour, which I was not willing to go for.

The last few kilometres before reaching Stonehaven were quite pleasant however … pretty trees, scottish rainforest, and over beautiful and colorful heather hills.

And then I reached the outskirts of my final destination – STONEHAVEN!

… and after 4.5 hours today, total of around 350km with 12.000 altitude meters, 11 nights with 8 in my tent, I reached the North Sea — happiness, gratitude, pride!

I also released the little stone that I brought with me from the Atlantic in Torridon to the North Sea.

Many others chose Stonehaven as their final destination and some of them gathered for a beer and coffee at the beautiful harbor.

Heading to my hotel in Stonehaven now … freshen up and then travel down to Montrose by train for the evening reception that I will attend.

And here my video statement after completing the challenge:

Learnings:

1. Long-distance hiking is meditation! … and for me a better one than anything else offered.
2. The last day is also just a day … but leading to a long anticipated accomplishment.
3. The end of one challenge is the beginning of many more.
4. Really looking forward going back now … which means that one should do these type of self-reflections more often.
5. Sure there will be more to come, but tired right now 😴

Already booked my ticket for tomorrow morning to go to Aberdeen and on to Inverness by train where I will change to the bus bringing me to Ullapool, where I will hopefully be picked up 😇.

——————

And here some pictures from the evening event and the get together beforehand:

Left St. Drostan (again not a very good night) after waiting in line with many challengers for a beacon roll.

I was ready to go at 08:30 … pretty early for me, but this second to last day was my longest (35km) and sounded with 1200am also quite strenuous.

First time I took this route out of Tarfside … goes up pretty steep to eventually reach the last corbett (Mount Battock) with beautiful 360 degree views.

Before reaching the top I met Jan, a german scientist who works as a prion research professor at UC London.

Amazing his career and achievements and also personal stories. We walked together all the way till the Charr bothy … nicest bothy that I have seen so far!

Jan stayed here pitching his tent and for me it was only halfway towards my planned campsite destination.

On the way to the Feteresso Forest I came by this beauty of a little hill …

… and after a couple of kilometres on a street with fast traffic I entered the huge managed forest … not pretty … and also including a decent size windfarm – probably around 30-40 towers …

I was quite worried on whether I would find water at the campsite location inside this vast forest – and I did!

And even more worried that there would not be a flat and usable flat open space for the tent – but I found one … so all good at the end.

As a matter of fact — at the end of the day three challengers seeked and found the same location …

Cooked my last meal …no more food in my backpack!

Which brings me to my learnings for today:

1. Great minds think and plan alike 😉 …
2. Do not overplan supplies … a day without food you survive! Water is more important.
3. If I look at the people I already met by pure accident it was well worth it for me …
4. If you sit at home you cannot meet people!

Tomorrow a quick 4-5 hour hike to Stonehaven … I picked a path that should allow good and fast walking with only some car traffic towards the end. My plan after arrival is to drink the whiskey that I carried with me the entire trip … possibly have a beer at the harbor, check into my hotel, clean up, go to Montrose by train and pickup my finisher shirt … I will report 🥳

On paper an easy and fast day — only 21km, but as I did this before, with a very steep incline up from Glen Doll to Loch Brandy (what a fantastic name) that looks a little like a volcano … and maybe it is … need to check!

But the good part this morning was my stay at the Clova Hotel … ate well in the evening … did some of my laundry … and was offered a full breakfast in the morning. The actual sleep was not that good … I guess I am used to my tent now 😎

After reaching the top (870m) it was actually quite difficult to find a path and even more difficult to make it down to the valley.

After reaching the west end of Loch Lee it was just another 8km before reaching St. Drostan and signing in for the day … nice chats in the kitchen with beacon rolls, cake and fruit …

… and I was lucky to get one of the few single rooms with own bathroom and shower … after first settling in for a bunkbed but then luckily changing that with the two canadian sisters who wanted to stay together … sometimes you are at the right place and time 😁

And then the Masonic Lodge started their BBQ and open their bar.

Nice talks and we even found a german subgroup … left around 22:00 after quite some alcohol.

Learnings:

1. Water is live and power (yes, also nothing new … but experienced it particularly today … for me the hottest day of the challenge)
2. Regular and known places are comforting (in this case Tarfside — third time in three challenges)
3. You get happier and more excited getting closer to a final destination and being sure you can make it!

Tomorrow another really tough day with 32 km and one more night in the tent before reaching Stonehaven on Thursday 👋 — oidhche mhath!

The plan (and I made it) was to leave Lich Beannie and actually pass two hill ranges (Glen Isla and Glen Prosen) before steeply descending into Glen Doll. In 2023 I came down the infamous Jock’s road and this time the Kilbo path down the Shank of Drumfollow.

But before that I had to first climb the one and only Munro (hills over 3000 feet), the MAYAR and the opposite DRIESH. Not a spectacular mountain but a great view and a cool

And I met two georgeous Springer Spaniels on top …

The way down was indeed very steep, but went fast anyway. And after reaching the parking lot a mere 6km to reach the Clova Hotel … took a shower … did laundry … and had a three course dinner 🍽️ … and now I will go to bed …

… and best, tomorrow’s breakfast is included as well!

My thoughts / learnings:

1. Yes, a physical challenge requires planning and physical strength … but completing is largely a dependent on the strength of your mind!
2. Pain resistance and getting towards the final destination is also 90% mental.
3. We need to teach that our kids, students …
4. A plan is essential, but willingness to change it based on circumstances is the key to success!

And with that I am up to date again after 3 days of absolutely no connection.

Tomorrow is a steep incline up to Loch Brady and a similarly steep descent to Loch Lee and then on to Tarfside where I am already looking forward to challengers.

Should be relatively easy, but I may decide to continue a little further to reduce my long day 11.

We will see!

Long trip ahead, but about half of it known to me as I went it before.

The first part from the Tarf River campsite to Glen Tilt is apparently not often walked … I lost the path several times.

But beautiful views from above and below.

From Glen Tilt the path lead up to the beautiful Fealar Lodge … apparently the highest altitude hunting lodge in the UK.

I also passed my campsite from 2023 and once I reached Loch nan Eun I made the descent towards the Dalmunzie Hotel.

On the way down I had a quick chat with Andrew, who rested on a huge rock.

After another 1.5 hours I reached the Dalmunzie Castle Hotel — stayed there before and remembered their food very favorably … from here only another 8km to my campsite at Loch Beannie.

I charged my devices had wonderful food and spend all in all about 2 hours before heading down to Spital of Glenshee.

After crossing the Shee Waters I followed the Cateran Trail (a 2-5 day trip … also very nice!) and saw this beautiful and unique Mother / Lamb pair.

And what you see here … walls towards the sky … must have been very hard to complete … no idea how old they are, but certainly no engine support at the time.

Upon reaching Lich Beannie (was again the only one) I put up the tent and took a bath 😁

Learnings for today:

1. A long break in between is very refreshing and if accompanied with food a source of strength (of course I knew that before … but experiencing it is reinforcing)
2. To make it to the campsite at 20:00 or even 21:00 ist quite OK — setup takes 20 minutes and sunset is not before 21:30 anyway (somewhat bright till 22:30).
3. No, no more — that’s it for today!

Look easy on the map … how wrong was I.

If you see the grass bushes on the map it indicates marsh / bog terrain. And I had to go 15km through that today …

All in all I was completely exhausted and spend 11 hours walking … and people who know me also know that I typically do not take breaks or only short ones.

Saw lots of frogs and beetles today though … on the positive note 😉

Kept walking up for about 500 am along some spectacular waterfalls and still enough water … I am positively surprised.

Almost on top I suddenly saw a person in front of me taking a break … on this path? Actually not a path … just on the map, but likely not walked for months.

And guess who it was?

Immo from Berlin, who virtually “saved” my live in 2021 when customs had unknowingly to me taken my gas cartridge and he gave me his spare one.

In 2023 I met a lonely guy sitting at a table waiting for the Cafe at Kinnloch Rannoch to open … was Immo (paid my debt back by inviting him for breakfast)!

And now 2025 day 8 in one of the remotest places you can meet someone!

Wonder where we will meet in 2027 — this is certainly one of the oddest things — don’t meet anyone else for days and then Immo again … and both of us started at different places, different days and did not know the tour of the other. Hope you come visit me in our scottish house one-time … open invitation for you!

After a short chat and some walking together he left to Blair Atholl and I went up another hill to start my 15km cross the marsh terrain.

But everything has an end … and around 19:00 I reached my planned campsite location.

And my learnings:

1. TGOC is magical with unexplainable surprises
2. Boggy terrain is a real pain when it had not rained for 3 weeks … imagine if it previously had rained for many days.

Why do I say “typical” challenge day?

Because it had ups and downs, frustrations, but also bright and surprising moments … and “magical” support from other challengers.

You need to understand that around 300 people do this challenge, but they start at 12 different locations on the Atlantic coast several hundert kilometers apart from each other. You can also start at different days and can pick your individual route taking up to 15 walking days … and last but not least, you can end up on the North Sea coast on locations that are over 100 km apart. The chance of meeting someone who does this challenge is relatively small … you are all going roughly the same direction!

But let’s start at the beginning … not an ideal camping site … no water and not a particularly nice location. But it was late, I was tired and still had about one liter of water …

It actually took only a little more than an hour to reach the river Pattack … I filled up again and also made myself an instant noodle breakfast with a tea.

Crossing the next hill group should bring me into Dalwhinnie. First through a georgeous forest with some nice waterfalls … still surprises me where the water comes from after more than 2 weeks of zero rainfall.

The path ended as shown on the map and I had to cross over to another path … roughly 5km on the map. And how deceiving maps can be … I thought that little gorge named Dirc Bheag is not a big deal and rather flat. Well it was not … just the 1km through that took me more than 1 hour … if you see the pictures you know why.

The little lochan was only half full so approaching the gorge I walked along the shoreline, and … saw footsteps of another idiot like me who thought that this was a viable alternative.

I was basically finished when I stepped into a mud hole and fell forward into another mud hole while making contact with sharp rocks. My leg was rather heavily bleeding so I needed to stop and use the first aid kit … no ointment creme though 😖

And while packing up I realised that my old buddy, the Tissot wristwatch, was gone. Nowhere to be found … enclosed picture shows the location … if anyone finds it I will for sure give you a reward.

On towards Dalwhinnie I met Andrew and we walked together to the APIARY Cafe … nice place and my early afternoon lunch consisted of a breakfast roll with sausage and fried egg, another one with sausage and scrambled eggs, a cake, a cider, and a ☕️ mocca. And Andrew, my first challenge angel, had ointment creme!

For him it was the destination for the day … for me only halftime with another 15km to go and up 600 altitude meters.

First part was road, then I crossed the A9 (and luckily the train to Edinburgh passed as well) and subsequently following the gigantic waterlines for a while. As often in Scotland and as already happened in the morning the path suddenly ended.

It is amazing how easily one gets lost in that terrain despite trackers and GPS guidance.

I also saw a Black Adder snake again … saw one already in 2021. Poisonous, but not dangerous for humans, and quite shy anyway.

Anyway, eventually made it to 850m altitude with a fantastic panoramic view and a super steep decline towards my campground location.

What I learned today:

1. The fact that it did not rain for 10 days does not mean that the ground is dry in Scotland!
2. The scottish terrain is difficult to imagine by looking at the maps! You need to experience it!
3. A shortcut is often not a good idea!
4. There is always a challenger around when you need one. I experienced that in the previous crossings as well! … and that despite the fact that you typically don’t see anyone all day!

And sorry for the long wait … I am already at day 9 when I was able to publish that. Rest will come likely today when I stay at the Clova Hotel.

Well first let’s talk about the sleeping experience in a full 6 bed bunkbed room. I have a (long passed) military and german alpine hut background where you sometimes slept with 20 or even more people in one room. There is at least one who heavily snores and/or someone who is simply loud.

We had one of those as well … actually a person snoring and not behaving well … and it was not me.

I brought earplugs and a sleeping mask and survived!

At breakfast I met 4 challengers and we had a long chat about personal experiences and where to go or not go.

Left at around 09:30 first crossing Fort Augustus and then up towards Corrieyairdack pass … I took the scenic (longer) route along the river passing the beautiful Lady Falls.

The little path ended and I had to cross over to the passroad and got lost … I saw a road going up the hill and did not even check … did not follow a rule that I teach my students in the first class „an assumption is the mother of all the fuck-ups“ (excuse my words).

Eventually made it up the pass taking a short rest stop at an interesting little building with 3 beds and electric meters installed … long abandoned.

Down into Glen Spey … still some snow patches on the Munros of Creag Meagaidh … and passing Melgarve bothy where I stayed in 2021 (Day 4 from Mallaig).

Still 12km to go from here 😥

Shocking how little water is in the Spey River … but maybe you see the red deer standing in the middle of it.

Unfortunately I could not camp at the place I planned to … all fenced in! I went a little further hoping to find a good spot and water. The camping spot is OK … but looks more favourable on the picture then it really was.

Water? Zero … nada … nichts. Tomorrow should be still working out as I will meet a major river relatively early. In Dalwhinnie I might also be able to get additional supplies and a water container.

But I am really getting worried now … with the really hot weather and sunshine all day (have not seen a cloud at all today) I need to drink between 4 and 5 liters during the day.

I will report … should be quite challenging tomorrow with lots of altitude meters and distance kilometers.

I started relatively early this morning to make sure I would make it in time to buy supplies in Fort Augustus.

Very cold and misty in the morning! I walked through an old forest following a small path up … till it ended and then 5km through boggy terrain … very exhausting.

The sun came at around noon and showed the not so beautiful path following massive power lines and clear cuts.

But I had a rendezvous today which boosted my motivation — a shop, a restaurant, and a (well actually 2) beer … and later on with a bunkbed in a room staffed with a shower and toilette 🥳.

Fort Augustus with the caledonian canal and several bars / restaurants is a nice little place, but overrun by tourist buses filled with asians, mainland europeans and americans.

Tomorrows tour will be quite tough and strenuous over the Corrieyairac pass down into the Spey Valley – 32 km and 1000 am!

What a beautiful campsite I left, but spoiler, the day 2 one was even more beautiful. I was initially planning to take the originally planned route over the mountain, but decided against it and went around – added 8 km l, but likely saved a couple of hours and also allowed me to visit the falls of glomach.

Lots of path less walking today with plenty of deer sightings (no walkers though) and really low water levels. The river ling is normally not crossable … no problems today.

And plenty of deer on the way – can you count the ones on the ridge?

Walking up Glen Elchaig I eventually turned towards the Falls of Glomach. I decided to do that because there was still water coming down. And after a very steep gorge walk I saw them.

And then for another 3 km looking for the perfect camping place.

What can I say — even with a shower and pool.

Day 3

The following day I decided against climbing the Sgurt nan Ceathramhnan because of the water scarcity on the ridge. Instead I went around into Glen Affric, passing the Youth Hostel (!!!) and the followed the Affric Kentale trail for about 10km – felt like a highway … saw at least 10 walkers.

Halfway down the lake I took a tiny path to Dougie passing through an ancient scot pine forest.

After another 10km I reached Cougie and my campsite.