Author Archives: Michael Friebe

Rained till 9:00 this morning … but my plan was anyway not to leave before 10:30 towards Kingussie and on to the impressive Ruthven Brarracks. Weather is supposed to be decent and I sure hope that holds true, as I will be camping for the next two nights I had to resupply food and blister bandages plus a can of beer for tonight 🍺

I was supposed to be an easy day — only 24km, 400 altitude meters and a mere 7 hours of walking time. The Drumguish Distillery was supposedly on my path. I found a sign one time and then hoped it was towards the village of Drumguish … would make sense. But I guess that was wrong … never found the place 😢

Then I descended down into Glen Feshie … had to cross a river again (remember to bring Crocs — saved me several times) and then walked along the river for another three / four kilometres passing a very nice bothy.

Tonight it is supposed to rain very hard for a couple of hours with the remainder of the day fine. I will read a little bit today … I am carrying a real book with me that I have not opened once yet. You are either to tired or simply cannot concentrate after such a strenuous trip. Today I feel strong 💪 enough though!

That also means that I will likely go to bed around 20:00 and with that may actually leave tomorrow quite early. I am ahead of my schedule and theoretically could reach Braemar tomorrow already, but I will most likely take an easy day and camp again half way.

I am really looking forward to actually see Mar Lodge with their thousands of deer antlers. Was there in March already, but was not open at the time. They apparently also have a Cafe open … also needed, because I ate my last food yesterday evening already.

3 other tents were build up by last evening … guess it was a popular stop. I left last at around 08:15 and made it to Mar Lodge (about 4 km before at the Linn of Dee there were signs already indicating that there is Coffee and Tea for TGOC participants) just before 10:00.

I was a little disappointed as the Lodge itself was closed and the TGOC meeting point was in the stables. If you want to know why I was sad – and with the knowledge that I am a hunter/stalker – check that one out https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3698725

Road to Braemar and the Mar Lodge Estate with the Munros – great walking there!

First thing I did when entering Braemar was to head to the pharmacy and buy some pain medication and IBU cream for my foot / toe. Hope it works! And, I bought two pair of socks and a sleeping bag liner because I was rather cold the last nights.

At 16:30 my son Daniel should arrive with the bus from Aberdeen and tonight we go to the Flying Stag Bar at the Five Arms Hotel, which is one of the leading hotels in the UK … in the middle of the Scotish Highlands (https://thefifearms.com/eat-drink/).

Daniel arrived and we immediately went to the Braemar Brewery – Daniel studying Beverage Technology and me with a more than 30 year interest in craft brewing (and a Master of Science in Brewing and Distilling as I may want to add) were delighted about the tasting tour triggered by my comment that I did not particularly enjoy one of their beers last time I was in Braemar.

At 19:00 we had Dinner at the Five Arms Hotel in their bar restaurant named Flying Stag … wonder why? See the picture!

And they have more trophy’s!

Left the bothy around 07:30 … plan was to go down to Laggan and then take the inland route to Newtonmore.

The deer came up to almost the bothy …

I walked along the Spey river to Laggan – Ok as I was promised a cafe at around half distance that I reached at 11:30 — cafe is closed though on Mondays and Tuesdays. I was so looking forward to that 😢.

It was not that strenuous today, but my feet hurt really bad … and 34 km with 17kg backpack is also not soooo easy. So I had to take more breaks than usual. But as it did not rain all day today 🥳 and the ground was somewhat dry it was actually quite nice after all.

It dragged on and eventually made it to Newtonmore where I visited the Hostel and the challenge organizers — thanks for that great job and effort. Also thanks for the tea and cake on site.

And now I am off to dinner — after two beers before I showered … no, I actually took a bath at the hotel, something I have not done for 20 years. My feet and body really needed it.

Forgot to mention … I was supposed to camp tonight about 4 km before Newtonmore. But the thought of a beer, dinner, shower, cozy bed in combination with Internet connection (rarely any connection) made me look for a B&B and motivated me to go the extra distance. I am actually slightly ahead of schedule now 😎.

Tomorrow will be a relaxed day with a visit to a distillery and only 24km.

Started with a full scotish breakfast 🍳 (including haggis and black pudding) and left the B&B around 09:30 up the Glen Roy. Initially with a lot of rain and subsequently fighting against heavy heavy headwind.

Total of 30km in a little more than 7 hours.

And I stayed for the first time in a scotish bothy with 4 other challengers that I will meet again on friday in Braemar.

This is a very long stretch to Brae Roy Lodge (hunting lodge) and the further up the Glen. On the way the gourgeous Roy Falls.

Another 2 hours after that you cross into a new glen / valley starting with Loch Spey and River Spey. The namegiver of the famous whisky region Speyside.

Around 17:00 I arrived in the bothy … the fire was still going and the deer gazing outside not bothered by us.

After dinner and some very nice chatting we all went to sleep at around 21:30 … my plan for tomorrow will probably be to reach Newtonmore on a little more direct path. We will see!

Got up at 06:30 because I knew it would be a long day today, as i was 2 hours short of the place I actually wanted to be yesterday. Luckily I stopped when I stopped … the actual site would not have been very nice.

Well the weather was nice at least … quite a mess to pack everything when it is raining and blowing.

Then I got lost for the first time, because the new roads / paths for logging were not on my map. One extra hour.

And a little later I took the wrong valley down — please remember there are often no paths at all. Well made it down to the lake, but added another hour.

I subsequently passed the Neptun Staircase – part of the Caledonian Canal from Inverness to Fort Williams. I do not recall exactly, but around 15 shift lifting devices.

From here you were also able to see the Ben Nevis, the UK‘s highest mountain … only a little more than 1.300m (but from sealevel) and still quite a bit of snow up there. In 3 days I plan to go up the Cairn Toul, the second highest mountain, maybe I will reconsider as I am not prepared for that.

After that I had to follow the street to Spleanbridge and then I wanted to cheat a little bit (5km along a busy road) and take the train from there to Roybridge. Well, did not work – train was canceled … so I had to walk. My feet look terrible – so I treated myself for some good food at least.

Tomorrow is another long day with rain all day, but it should still not be too difficult … let’s see!

It rained till around 09:00 — I patiently waited in the tent. Very long day today … it actually took the 9h as indicated … I am completely exhausted and the first blisters show … now wonder with wet boots to start.

Day started with some major incline and the first Munro (Sgurr Corr – over 1.000m) and a traverse followed by an even steeper descent.

The rest was rather boring and very muddy.

I was short 2 miles / 3 km today … which I need to catch up tomorrow. Hope the boots dry.

At 10:15 I boarded the ferry to Inverie … with 20 other challengers … many of them in sneakers! How stupid is that!

Met a german on the ferry and we walked the first 3k together — eternally grateful, because he gave me his spare gas cartridge for my cooker — the german custom took it!

Pretty lousy weather and I can already say that it was miserable pretty much the whole day. The weather forecast said 15mm from 11-20:00 and a 40%-80% … well it was 40mm (my guess) and 100%!! And since it rained for the last few days here many rivers were impassable without taking your shoes off. All in all a terrible start … boots wet, clothes wet.

Below find some photos and videos of the first day. Took me over 8 hours without break 😥

Rained through the night and into the morning. So I left a little late … hope i can catch up with my plan.