Author Archives: Michael Friebe

After the Callater party that ended for me at 30 minutes past midnight I got up at 07:30. Already heard and smelled breakfast activities. Packed my backpack and had two wonderful Bacon sandwiches (never seen those in Central Europe) with brown and red sauce (whatever that is anyway, but they said you either are a red or a brown sauce person – I liked both and even without any sauce).

And then it was time to say goodbye and leave … not without a final picture. Thank you one more time!

And off I went along Loch Callater towards the famous JOCK‘s road (😀 – I lost the path several times because it was not recognisable) up about 500m from the Loch surrounded by Munros. The path itself is on Munro level.

See the pictures below for an impression of todays tour that was rather cold (I guess 2-3 degrees on top … at least with the windchill) and misty. I was quite exhausted despite the low kilometres and look forward to the hotel bed and good food tonight. … and I will do my laundry 🧺

Tomorrow is the last real mountain day … have to climb up 600 m to above Loch Brandy (been there last year in September already) and then back down into Glen Esk to Tarfside. Should be about the same length than today … which means I will leave late … maybe 10:00 or 10:30.

Weather was OK – initially dry and later some light drizzles that continued towards the next morning. Total of 24 km toda with a lot of up and down … first 200m up then roughly 5km in no-paths land.

After that I went up 500 altitude meters to the Munros of the Glenshee ski area and then back down to the cafe where I wrote yesterdays report.

After I left the cafe I had to go down the busy highway to Braemar for 2km to then turn east up the Carn an Tuirc. My goal was not to climb the Munro but to go to about 850m and then cut along the mountain north towards Loch Callater … worked more or less good.

After last years stop at the Callater Lodge I wanted to come back to actually stay and experience the fantastic camaraderie (and party) among the challengers. Typically with lots of alcohol and singing. On the way to the lodge I decided to just quickly go in there … say hallo and leave again.

What can I say … once arrived I was sucked in the setup … incredible friendship, hospitality and openness. Please note that this is a lodge … no running water, no electricity, no real toilets … that belongs to the Invercauld Estate and is operated by Bill for decades now.

Long story … I changed my mind and was offered a bed in the house. They have a total of 16 beds in 3 rooms plus extra space on the floors and camping outside plus attached Mountain Bothy.

„My“ room

It was a fantastic evening with singing and drinking till after midnight for me and longer for others.

I am very very glad that I stayed and experienced that … in my opinion a must for every challenger and an event that ties you even closer to the challenge.

I managed to get up next day at 07:30 to leave towards Jock‘s road and over to Glova Hotel. But next day is next day!

I felt much better today … pain is still there but reduced and manageable … and that stayed the way, so I even went up my first Munro after having pitched the tent. It really was a wonderful day and a very very beautiful countryside.

27 km to the tent site and another 3.5km up and down the MAM NAN CARN that also added 500 altitude meters.

Left around 09:20 and received a UK army food set for a day from two nice ladies that had too many … and they are pretty heavy. Understand why they wanted to get rid of them … but good for both parties!

Went up the Glen Tilt and passed the Duke of Atholl‘s hunting lodge — it can be let for a weekly rate of GBP 6.000 with room for 20!

After about 20km I crossed this beautiful bridge that is there for a sad reason.

And then I went up to FEALAR LODGE , the highest permanently inhabited house in the UK … stalking is possible and most of the lodges are available for guest — the big one houses 22.

I went up for another 7 km exceeding my previous target. But look at that … unbeatable in my opinion!

After a one hour snooze I decided to climb the Munro … only took me a little more than an hour. Who knows if I will make another one on this trip … what you have you have.

And, do you see my tent in one of the pictures?

On the way down — what a coincidence in this area (remember the CHALLENGE MOMENTS) — I ran into Carl, who made the record of the most climbed Munros during a challenge together with a friend last year. They managed 50!!!! (I did 8 last year and probably will do max. 3 this year)

Tomorrow I will go towards the Glenshee ski area (this Day 7 report was actually send during Day 8 from the Cafe at the Shee — Day 8-9 could take as I will not have any connection till I arrive at the Glova Hotel) and then over to Loch Callater Lodge … famous for their parties and alcohol! (without me though!)

I will stop shortly, eat and drink something and then move on to Jock‘s road leading into Glen Glova!

… and, I saw all kinds of animals today pretty close up.

The campground was nice … went to bed at 21:30 and pretty solidly slept till 07:00 … I really sleep well in tents and nature!

Today was planned to be the shortest and naturwise the least exciting day of the tour. First I walked to the famous HOUSE OF BRUAR … been there probably 10 times already (great outdoor and scottish clothing plus a superb food department) … to have my well deserved breakfast and ran into Paul again.

If you drive to the North of Scotland you pretty much have to pass that place at the A9 (exit Blair Atholl) … very recommendable stop! Paul and I had a long discussion and I went then on to Blair Atholl where I reserved a Pod some time ago.

I already showered and washed my clothes and now I need to take care of my foot / leg. I still need to buy some supplies and will have dinner in a local restaurant – I take every opportunity where I can avoid eating dried food.

Food for the day was Fish & Chips 🤤

Tomorrow I will go up Glen Tilt and the hike towards the best scotish ski area at Glenshee — should be a much longer day again.

Made it because I decided yesterday for a detour along Loch Rannoch but met my original route again at the campsite … after 32km and constant – partly unbearable pain in my left foot.

Saw the wonderful SCHIHALLION Munro – and the detour lead to one of the amazing CHALLENGE moments that people talk about.

Last year I started off at Mallaig crossing with the ferry over to Knoydart. There was a German on board as well … don’t know, but we talked about camping gas cartridges that you cannot check in … makes sense, but I did not comply out of ignorance. This made me doublecheck on whether my cartridge was still there … which was not the case but instead I found a german customs not that it was taken out!

I though my trip was over before it began … because three days without a cooker in the wilderness is not doable.

Anyway, the German offered to give me his spare one and I was saved … we walked together for about an hour and then went our own individual ways.

Why am I saying that … I was hungry this morning and once I reached the nice village of KINLOCH RANNOCH asked at the 5* Hotel and Spa (I am not kidding … single lane road to that place but apparently full) about a full scotish breakfast. Too late … I came at 10:05 and the kitchen closed at 10:00. But the friendly Lady send me to the artisan cafe in the village where I arrived at 10:20 with the Cafe opening at 10:30. 50m away was a table and bench attented by a challenger walker … and guess who it was … IMMO SEEBERGER the guy who saved me last year.

What coincidence is that 5 days into the walk, starting on three days in 14 locations and everyone with an individual walking route, to meet the person at exactly the same place and time that you owe an unsettled favor.

Thanks Immo and we are even now after I paid for the breakfast 🍳🤓

Immo went off to the Schihallion and I towards Blair Atholl … maybe we will meet again next year!

I continued along another lake and found the DUNASTAIR ESTATE castle — must have been a great place 100 years ago.

I continued the path up the hill and met a 82 year old “real” Scot who still hated everything that is English or a Stuart / Campbell … he kept me engaged for almost an hour talking about the hard work they did on the Blackwater Reservoir 60 years ago (see Day 3) and the working conditions. Quite interesting 🧐

While it was a relatively easy day today it still took me quite a long time and on the last 4 km I met Paul again (from Loch Ossian Youth Hostel) who just came out of the forest road when I came down on the normal road.

We greeted and he went where I was coming from 🙋‍♂️ … we quickly discussed his route and came to the conclusion that he was going the wrong way … another one of these moments … while you typically do not see anyone all day long at the weirdest times you meet someone that helps! Don’t get me wrong … I am absolutely not superstitious, but it is still amazing.

Tomorrow should be relatively easy … only 15km to Blair Atholl … shortest day during the tour and meant as a recovery day. I need to by some supplies and will have dinner somewhere … and I am staying at a clamping pod … first time!

Let me start with Loch Ossian Youth Hostel, which was fully occupied and no one was in the youth age 😂 — male and female separated 16 people per room. It was crowded but funny. Went to bed relatively early … because I know what happens in these setups … the first one that goes to sleep survives the best especially with earplugs.

Very friendly staff and even one shower available — besides the fact that it was quite heavily raining that was also a reason that I stayed longer. Who knows when the next opportunity is?

The weather forecast changed again for the worse and promised improved conditions after 10:00 — NOT TRUE! It got worse before it finally turned OK in the late afternoon.

I took a detour from my planned trip avoiding the Munros that were invisible anyway and to spare my feet the extra altitude meters and likely aweful path conditions — and it actually feels better now!

Met some Challengers at the YH already and also passed John, who is one of the oldest participants with more than 20 completed crossings. Very nice man! He also later on joined my campsite.

Tomorrow I planned another easy day – again around 25km – to Tummel Bridge. Before that I will need to buy some supplies … I am out of food now. There are two hotels on my way and maybe I get up early to enjoy a full scotish breakfast 🍳

What a weird day! My feet hurt so bad this morning (and during the night) and I was not sure that I would be able to go.

Then it rained very hard during the night … which means I had to pack wet items! Oh well …

Weather was not good at all … don’t get deceived by the pictures … you obviously make pictures when it is nice!

Starting off it haled … then sunny … then heavy rain … then decent … then heavy rain. You get the point. I actually put rain gear on and off at least 6 times! The mountains had new snow ❄️!

While it was not too long today it was very exhausting … the paths that were visible were flooded and muddy … aweful walking!

But everything has an (positive) end! And I saw the train again … considering it only comes 3 times per day I am pretty lucky 🍀

I was planning for that destination for over a year … CORROUR STATION! A wonderful restaurant in the middle of nowhere … just reachable by train or foot! Excellent food and drinks … I was do happy.

The place was full despite it being a Monday! Will need to come back …

I am staying at the YOUT HOSTEL LOCH OSSIAN. That is another 30 minute walk from here … will report about that later … also something that I planned for a while.

My feet are not doing that well … but after a night follows another hiking day .

Was „only“ supposed to be 32km (yesterdays calculated 33km were also off) … but in contrast to yesterday it rained quite heavily for the first 5 hours. I had to pack up while it was raining and got soalong wet … I had to go through several moors and had to stop 4 or 5 times to get the water out of the shoes … not a great experience to walk in „water“.

From 400 starting point I had to go down back to sealevel then up Glen Etive and subsequently up to 600m, back down to 350 and then up to DEVILS STAIRCASE at 548m followed by a steep decline to Kinlochleven where I stay at a campground.

Plenty of deer … and some in shooting distance. Probably saw 150-200 today, some grazing in peoples front yards.

I had a feeling that the day did not want to stop.

But now Shower + Laundry done + Burger at the McDonald Hotel and Restaurant. So all good!

Tomorrow will be an easy 800 altitude meter, 25km hike to Corrour Station (top restaurant only reachable by train or the hike that i am doing) and Loch Ossian Youth Hostel.

Started at 08:20 with beautiful weather – 16 degrees sunny that felt like 26 degrees. I drank about 3.5 liters during todays hike … and I did not have to go to the toilet 😉

First passed the beautiful Oban Golf course and followed the train tracks towards Connel Bridge.

Then I crossed the one lane bridge and turned east – beautiful houses. Then the first tough part started … I actually found a path that was not on the map … later that day I unsuccessfully tried to find a path that was on the map.

After the initial hill crossing I walked back down to sea-level and passed some stunning camping grounds and also this ancient tree.

After almost 30km I had to go up 600 altitude meters … what a killer.

After reaching the ridge another 200 altitude meters down to my awesome camping ground.

I cooked and went to bed at 20:00 thanks to the Lufthansa eye – blindfold I brought with me .. and slept till 06:30 woken up from the heavy rain 😥

Everything worked out very well today.

Trains were on time … the plane arrived 15 minutes early in Glasgow. I made it to the city center and bought the only thing that I still needed, the camping gas! What a fantastic store …

Then I bought the train ticket and bridged 2 of the 3.5 hours waiting time at the MERCHANT CITY BREWDOG the largest craft brewery in the world … with me as a very minor shareholder since 8 years.

Tomorrow I will attempt to leave by 8:30am … I have 32 km to cover and want to be at my camping site by latest 18:00 … I will report!!