Day 4 — Roybridge to Melgarve Bothy

Started with a full scotish breakfast 🍳 (including haggis and black pudding) and left the B&B around 09:30 up the Glen Roy. Initially with a lot of rain and subsequently fighting against heavy heavy headwind.

Total of 30km in a little more than 7 hours.

And I stayed for the first time in a scotish bothy with 4 other challengers that I will meet again on friday in Braemar.

Glen Roy
Sheep everywhere

This is a very long stretch to Brae Roy Lodge (hunting lodge) and the further up the Glen. On the way the gourgeous Roy Falls.

Another 2 hours after that you cross into a new glen / valley starting with Loch Spey and River Spey. The namegiver of the famous whisky region Speyside.

Loch Spey
Munros in Glen Roy

Around 17:00 I arrived in the bothy … the fire was still going and the deer gazing outside not bothered by us.

After dinner and some very nice chatting we all went to sleep at around 21:30 … my plan for tomorrow will probably be to reach Newtonmore on a little more direct path. We will see!

Day 3 — made it to Roybridge after getting lost and some catch-up — total of 35km and 11 hours of walking (a mere 1.000 altitude meters)

After 11 hours of straight walking – in wet boots by the way – now a beer (or two) – and, I am staying in a B&B today 😁

Got up at 06:30 because I knew it would be a long day today, as i was 2 hours short of the place I actually wanted to be yesterday. Luckily I stopped when I stopped … the actual site would not have been very nice.

Roughly the campsite that I originally planned

Well the weather was nice at least … quite a mess to pack everything when it is raining and blowing.

Then I got lost for the first time, because the new roads / paths for logging were not on my map. One extra hour.

And a little later I took the wrong valley down — please remember there are often no paths at all. Well made it down to the lake, but added another hour.

Butterfly season to start
Right around here I saw the first people since friday
The Clan Cameron Museum — very nice!

I subsequently passed the Neptun Staircase – part of the Caledonian Canal from Inverness to Fort Williams. I do not recall exactly, but around 15 shift lifting devices.

Neptun‘s Staircase

From here you were also able to see the Ben Nevis, the UK‘s highest mountain … only a little more than 1.300m (but from sealevel) and still quite a bit of snow up there. In 3 days I plan to go up the Cairn Toul, the second highest mountain, maybe I will reconsider as I am not prepared for that.

After that I had to follow the street to Spleanbridge and then I wanted to cheat a little bit (5km along a busy road) and take the train from there to Roybridge. Well, did not work – train was canceled … so I had to walk. My feet look terrible – so I treated myself for some good food at least.

Tomorrow is another long day with rain all day, but it should still not be too difficult … let’s see!

Day 2 – 30km – 1.600 altitude meter – much better weather

It rained till around 09:00 — I patiently waited in the tent. Very long day today … it actually took the 9h as indicated … I am completely exhausted and the first blisters show … now wonder with wet boots to start.

Day started with some major incline and the first Munro (Sgurr Corr – over 1.000m) and a traverse followed by an even steeper descent.

The rest was rather boring and very muddy.

I was short 2 miles / 3 km today … which I need to catch up tomorrow. Hope the boots dry.

Day 1 – Knoydart – 25km, 1,400 altitude meters – aweful weather and too strenuous first day 🥺

At 10:15 I boarded the ferry to Inverie … with 20 other challengers … many of them in sneakers! How stupid is that!

Met a german on the ferry and we walked the first 3k together — eternally grateful, because he gave me his spare gas cartridge for my cooker — the german custom took it!

Pretty lousy weather and I can already say that it was miserable pretty much the whole day. The weather forecast said 15mm from 11-20:00 and a 40%-80% … well it was 40mm (my guess) and 100%!! And since it rained for the last few days here many rivers were impassable without taking your shoes off. All in all a terrible start … boots wet, clothes wet.

Below find some photos and videos of the first day. Took me over 8 hours without break 😥

Rained through the night and into the morning. So I left a little late … hope i can catch up with my plan.

Scotland Crossing Travel Day

08:55 Regional Train to Düsseldorf — 10 minutes late so I take the IC instead. Arrive on time at the airport. Eurowings check-in with a huge line, luckily I still have my Senator status despite virtually no flights in the last 24 month.

At the Recklinghausen train station

Flight was also full, but completely uneventful … Good!

You have to fill out a landing card now in the UK – was new to me.

I wanted to charge my phone with the battery pack that I brought with me and could not find it … but a short note from the german custom that they removed it 😤.

Bus to Glasgow (GBP 13,90) brought me to the main shopping street (Queen and Buchanan), which allowed me to run my errands (lighter, hat, power bank). And then I spend 2 hours at the BREWDOG in Glasgow … many of you know that I am an early shareholder of this craft brewery now valued at 2 Billion!!

Queen Street Train Station

After that I was supposed to take the train to Mallaig (GBP 40), but the info board said „inquire“ 🥺. After asking support staff I was told that there are not enough train personal and therefore the trip was canceled … but they provided a bus to Fort William (the driver and me in a 50 seat coach) and after a weird route we arrived there at 22:14. And guess what .., the train from here to Mallaig was waiting. So I got my train ride.

It is midnight now and the hotel left the key for me at the reception. Tomorrow is the first day of walking … but first I need to take the small ferry over to Knoydart at 10:15am!

I hope I wake up in time.

SCOTLAND – Crossing – t minus 2

I am departing tomorrow, train to DUS airport at 08:55 (CEST), then plane to Edinburgh, bus to Glasgow and on to Fort Williams, train to Mallaig — arrival 23:31 (GMT+1). Next day (Friday) to Inverie / Knoydart with the ferry.

Total weight of my backpack (including two days of food) — 15.3kg … actually less than I thought!

Weather forecast for Friday to Saturday 😢 … but my experience is that Yes, it rains pretty much every day, it is typically not as bad as predicted.

“Sleeping” Equipment

I started with a tent that I bought only based on the weight — the lightest that was available. Once arrived I build it up and realized that it is impossible to sleep in … way to short for me! So I gave to my youngest son 🙂

And bought this one — 2.25m long, 1.6kg weight, took me not even 4 minutes to build up and the equal time to take it down again. 10.000mm water durability from the ground up and 5.000mm on the roof. Should do it for Scotland – I hope 🥳

Jack Wolfskin Gossamer tent — in my garden

Getting ready — collecting THINGS

So, pretty complete my preparation.

I will start my tour exactly 4 weeks from today.

On May 12 I will take a flight from Düsseldorf to Edinburgh, followed by a Bus to the Glasgow Queen Street train station and then the HARRY POTTER train via Fort William to Mallaig.

Arrival 23:35 😴

Next day with the short ferry from Mallaig to Inverie

TGOC – The Grand Outdoor Challenge 2022 – May 13-26 2022 – Michael‘s planned trip

I am preparing now for my TGOC participation that was originally planned for 2020. I will walk – alone – about 20km-30km for 12 days (with a break day roughly in the middle – at BRAEMAR) and about 1.000 to 1.500 altitude meters in average. On my path from West to East I plan to ascend/descend 11 Munros.

Most of the days I will sleep in the middle of nowhere in the Scotish Highlands in my single tent eating pre-prepared and packaged calorie rich trekking food. With expected 5.000 daily calories needed and probably only 2.500 taken I expect some loss of own body reserves 😆.

I will leave my home on thursday May 12th flying from DUS to EDI and from there with the SCOTRAIL to Mallaig on the West-Coast, my starting point. The first walking day will be May 13th with a rather strenuous hike from Inverie on Knoydart, a wonderful place that I have visited numerous times in the last years.

If you want to follow my trip – and the preparations – then I invite you to read my travel blog.