Day 6 — TGOC 2025 — a typical challenge day?

Why do I say “typical” challenge day?

Because it had ups and downs, frustrations, but also bright and surprising moments … and “magical” support from other challengers.

You need to understand that around 300 people do this challenge, but they start at 12 different locations on the Atlantic coast several hundert kilometers apart from each other. You can also start at different days and can pick your individual route taking up to 15 walking days … and last but not least, you can end up on the North Sea coast on locations that are over 100 km apart. The chance of meeting someone who does this challenge is relatively small … you are all going roughly the same direction!

But let’s start at the beginning … not an ideal camping site … no water and not a particularly nice location. But it was late, I was tired and still had about one liter of water …

It actually took only a little more than an hour to reach the river Pattack … I filled up again and also made myself an instant noodle breakfast with a tea.

Crossing the next hill group should bring me into Dalwhinnie. First through a georgeous forest with some nice waterfalls … still surprises me where the water comes from after more than 2 weeks of zero rainfall.

Pattack River
…too far and too early in the walk … otherwise I would have taken a bath

The path ended as shown on the map and I had to cross over to another path … roughly 5km on the map. And how deceiving maps can be … I thought that little gorge named Dirc Bheag is not a big deal and rather flat. Well it was not … just the 1km through that took me more than 1 hour … if you see the pictures you know why.

this was the little gorge on the map
the lochan in the back … and you see the problems already

The little lochan was only half full so approaching the gorge I walked along the shoreline, and … saw footsteps of another idiot like me who thought that this was a viable alternative.

… and the other side … a little later I fell 🤕

I was basically finished when I stepped into a mud hole and fell forward into another mud hole while making contact with sharp rocks. My leg was rather heavily bleeding so I needed to stop and use the first aid kit … no ointment creme though 😖

And while packing up I realised that my old buddy, the Tissot wristwatch, was gone. Nowhere to be found … enclosed picture shows the location … if anyone finds it I will for sure give you a reward.

On towards Dalwhinnie I met Andrew and we walked together to the APIARY Cafe … nice place and my early afternoon lunch consisted of a breakfast roll with sausage and fried egg, another one with sausage and scrambled eggs, a cake, a cider, and a ☕️ mocca. And Andrew, my first challenge angel, had ointment creme!

Dalwhinnie — was there twice already … but really lovely distillery
… sorry, picture could not wait … was so hungry
… and here is Andrew

For him it was the destination for the day … for me only halftime with another 15km to go and up 600 altitude meters.

First part was road, then I crossed the A9 (and luckily the train to Edinburgh passed as well) and subsequently following the gigantic waterlines for a while. As often in Scotland and as already happened in the morning the path suddenly ended.

A9 and the train to Edinburgh … in the back the mountain I still had to go up

It is amazing how easily one gets lost in that terrain despite trackers and GPS guidance.

I also saw a Black Adder snake again … saw one already in 2021. Poisonous, but not dangerous for humans, and quite shy anyway.

The Black Adder

Anyway, eventually made it to 850m altitude with a fantastic panoramic view and a super steep decline towards my campground location.

Views from the top … and then 500m super steep down
… for todays camping spot

What I learned today:

  1. The fact that it did not rain for 10 days does not mean that the ground is dry in Scotland!
  2. The scottish terrain is difficult to imagine by looking at the maps! You need to experience it!
  3. A shortcut is often not a good idea!
  4. There is always a challenger around when you need one. I experienced that in the previous crossings as well! … and that despite the fact that you typically don’t see anyone all day!

And sorry for the long wait … I am already at day 9 when I was able to publish that. Rest will come likely today when I stay at the Clova Hotel.

Day 5 — TGOC 2025 — from Fort Augustus towards Dalwhinnie

Todays tour over Corrieyairack pass into Glen Spey

Well first let’s talk about the sleeping experience in a full 6 bed bunkbed room. I have a (long passed) military and german alpine hut background where you sometimes slept with 20 or even more people in one room. There is at least one who heavily snores and/or someone who is simply loud.

We had one of those as well … actually a person snoring and not behaving well … and it was not me.

I brought earplugs and a sleeping mask and survived!

At breakfast I met 4 challengers and we had a long chat about personal experiences and where to go or not go.

Left at around 09:30 first crossing Fort Augustus and then up towards Corrieyairdack pass … I took the scenic (longer) route along the river passing the beautiful Lady Falls.

Lady Falls

The little path ended and I had to cross over to the passroad and got lost … I saw a road going up the hill and did not even check … did not follow a rule that I teach my students in the first class „an assumption is the mother of all the fuck-ups“ (excuse my words).

I was certain that this is the right mountain and correct direction … without checking … added 2-3km and 45 minutes 😖

Eventually made it up the pass taking a short rest stop at an interesting little building with 3 beds and electric meters installed … long abandoned.

The building at the top of Corrieyairdack pass
… and the inside

Down into Glen Spey … still some snow patches on the Munros of Creag Meagaidh … and passing Melgarve bothy where I stayed in 2021 (Day 4 from Mallaig).

… still some snow patches …
Melgarve Bothy

Still 12km to go from here 😥

Shocking how little water is in the Spey River … but maybe you see the red deer standing in the middle of it.

Unfortunately I could not camp at the place I planned to … all fenced in! I went a little further hoping to find a good spot and water. The camping spot is OK … but looks more favourable on the picture then it really was.

Water? Zero … nada … nichts. Tomorrow should be still working out as I will meet a major river relatively early. In Dalwhinnie I might also be able to get additional supplies and a water container.

But I am really getting worried now … with the really hot weather and sunshine all day (have not seen a cloud at all today) I need to drink between 4 and 5 liters during the day.

I will report … should be quite challenging tomorrow with lots of altitude meters and distance kilometers.

Day 5 campsite … no water anywhere in sight … in Scotland!

Day 4 — TGOC 2025 — cold / warm / not so nice but with a great ending (25 km, 750 am, 6:30 hours)

I started relatively early this morning to make sure I would make it in time to buy supplies in Fort Augustus.

Very cold and misty in the morning! I walked through an old forest following a small path up … till it ended and then 5km through boggy terrain … very exhausting.

Boggy terrain and poor visibility

The sun came at around noon and showed the not so beautiful path following massive power lines and clear cuts.

That was the view a large part of my day today
… but it also went through a nice forrest at the end

But I had a rendezvous today which boosted my motivation — a shop, a restaurant, and a (well actually 2) beer … and later on with a bunkbed in a room staffed with a shower and toilette 🥳.

Fort Augustus with the caledonian canal and several bars / restaurants is a nice little place, but overrun by tourist buses filled with asians, mainland europeans and americans.

Caledonian Canal
My first dinner at 16:00 — will have another one at 19:00 😋
My bunkbed at the …
Morag Lodge with a beautiful …
Bar!

Tomorrows tour will be quite tough and strenuous over the Corrieyairac pass down into the Spey Valley – 32 km and 1000 am!

Day 2 and 3 — TGOC 2025 — Total of 64 and 1.800 altitude meter

Day 2 – very long and hot!
Day 3 — almost as long as day 2, but felt longer

What a beautiful campsite I left, but spoiler, the day 2 one was even more beautiful. I was initially planning to take the originally planned route over the mountain, but decided against it and went around – added 8 km l, but likely saved a couple of hours and also allowed me to visit the falls of glomach.

Lots of path less walking today with plenty of deer sightings (no walkers though) and really low water levels. The river ling is normally not crossable … no problems today.

Not the river ling … but that is the normal sighting with respect to water
Nonach lodge and Loch Long

And plenty of deer on the way – can you count the ones on the ridge?

You should see at least 10 staring at you!
Should be about 50 …

Walking up Glen Elchaig I eventually turned towards the Falls of Glomach. I decided to do that because there was still water coming down. And after a very steep gorge walk I saw them.

Falls of Glomach 1
Falls of Glomach 2

And then for another 3 km looking for the perfect camping place.

What can I say — even with a shower and pool.

Pool and Shower
Felt so good!

Day 3

The following day I decided against climbing the Sgurt nan Ceathramhnan because of the water scarcity on the ridge. Instead I went around into Glen Affric, passing the Youth Hostel (!!!) and the followed the Affric Kentale trail for about 10km – felt like a highway … saw at least 10 walkers.

The Youth Hostel (Altbeithe)
Loch Affric

Halfway down the lake I took a tiny path to Dougie passing through an ancient scot pine forest.

Beautiful old Scot Pine

After another 10km I reached Cougie and my campsite.

Day 3 campsite at Cougie

Day 1 (11.05.2025) – TGOC – Torridon to Lochan Fuara (N57 23.6525 / W005 21.8344)

Total of 28km, approx. 1.100 altitude meter.

Phantastic mountain range starting in Torridon – approx 7km and 600 AM up to see the first Munro (Maol Chean-dearg) that I pass without climbing 😎 and opposite to that a fascinating rock formation (An Rhuad-Stac).

Maol Chean-darg (933m)
An Rhuad-Stac (892m)

After the pass a steep descent into a valley leading to Stratchcarron. I passed the beautiful Mountain Bothy COIRE FIONNARAICH.

MBA Bothy Coire Fionnaraich

After reaching the Strathcarron Hotel I stopped for a Cider and to listen to some Scottish Music and then off to the last 6km and 400 AM for my sleeping site at the Lochan Fuara.

Scottish Music at the Bar / Restaurant

Total walking time around 7 hours. Cooked a small dinner and watched the trouts jumping.

Lochan Fuara
Trouts in Action

Packed and Ready to GO!

Here it is again — my plan — Start Day 11.05.2025 from Torridon
  • Sanitary (Toothbrush et al.) 371g
  • Cooking equipment + 2 gas cartridges 742g
  • Walking sticks 520g
  • Iso mattress 670g
  • Tent (Durston) 1000g
  • Cocoon travel sheet 157g
  • Sleeping Bag (a Quilt) 652g
  • Pillow plus cover 98g
  • First Aid kit 245g
  • Clothes (additional to the ones worn – 2 pair of merino socks, 2 merino underwear and shirts) 811g
  • Towel 109g
  • Rain Jacket 678g
  • Additional pants 354g
  • Crocs (crossing rivers 😉) 234g
  • High Energy Dry Food (5 Packs – 800 kcal each) 1.053g
  • 2 Packs of Chicken Noodle (68 kcal each) 205g
  • 2 Flapchacks (378 kcal each) 181g
  • 4 Fruit and Nut Bars (138 kcal each) 148
  • Corned Beef (Yes, not needed, maybe also not that healthy, but I like it) 407g
  • Deer Musk Sports Lotion (since I use that … no more blisters) 121g
  • 2 Water Bottles with Lifestraws included (empty) 553g
  • Spare battery, charging cables plus small solar panel including light 151g
  • Swiss Army Knife plus Eating Gear plus Lighter 136g
  • Satellite Tracker (Garmin) plus Monocular (10×25) plus iPhone 438g
  • One extra Sweater 500g
  • Backpack including some accessories, rain protection 3.100g
  • TOTAL 13.634g (or net without food around 11,5kg)

My packing list — quite happy with 11.5kg NET weight!

Everything I take with me — see details above!
Fully packed and ready!

WEATHER: likely to good and too hot … if it is hot for a long period in Scotland than the streams are low or even dry, which requires drinking water to be specially treated.

And everything over 15 degrees during the day is very exhausting with 30 to 35km and over 1.000 altitude meters per day.

We will see how it goes! 🥳

And, if you want to follow my trip live — https://eur-share.explore.garmin.com/michaelfriebe

One month to go — TGOC 2025

Getting ready! My tour is planned and approved by TGOC challenge control starting May 11 in Torridon and planning to end on my 12th walking day in Stonehaven on May 22.

Planned for roughly 320km and 11.000 altitude meters — or roughly 30km and 1.000 altitude meters per day. Also plan to climb 5 Munros – weather and physical shape permitting.

Will attempt to write a daily report, but especially in the first half there is very sparse cellphone connection, which means the reports could be delayed by some days.

If you plan to meet me and walk with me (😎🥳) I will be leaving Torridon (Youth Hostel) May 11 at around 10:00 and plan to be in Strathcarron (train station) around 14:00. Additional meeting spots could be Fort Augustus on May 14 (not before 16:00), the Dalwhinnie Distillery around noon on May 16, Spital of Glenshee late afternoon on May 18, Clova Hotel late on May 19, and finally Tarfside late on May 20.

Stay tuned!

DAY 12 — TGOC 2023 – St. Cyrus to Challenge Control in Montrose

Final Summary Video
A little stroll from St. Cyrus, where I completed the challenge yesterday to Montrose — passing the “traditional” strawberry factory (aka CHARLTON FRUIT FARM)

What another great day — weather and mood wise. I left my camping site at around 09:30 and was at the CHARLTON FRUIT FARM about an hour later for a full scotish breakfast and a strawberry tart.

The “traditional” strawberry tart

Then I walked down to Kinnaber Links where I ended up last year and followed the beautiful and rather empty beach stretch to Montrose and the Park Hotel to sign out and receive my certificate, mug, and T-shirt.

MF – TGOC 2023 – and now 5km to Montrose
At Kinnaber Links – quite a popular space to finish
Beach from Kinnaber Links to Montrose
My Certificate
… and the first Cider … followed by another one …

At 19:00 we have a Challenge Dinner — I expect about 75 attendees. Tomorrow morning I will leave towards Edinburgh airport by train at around 07:45 for a flight to Düsseldorf leaving at noon.

DONE! Thanks for reading up and following my trip … next year I will (likely) pause and strongly consider doing it again 2025!

DAY 11 — TGOC 2023 – Tarfside – St. Cyrus (finished a day early!)

After I arrived in Fettercairn I decided to continue to Laurencekirk and once there I wanted to go all the way!

Wonderful day … excellent weather … and I am in good shape. My plan was to actually to go to the FETTERCAIRN DISTILLERY and a little further.

I was one of the last yesterday evening and subsequent one of the last to leave the campsite 🏕️ … only 3 or 4 tents still build up after I left around 09:30.

Look back into Glen Esk

First I went down Glen Esk for about 15km, initially on the road and after crossing the Esk on a typical path along the river. Before the ROCKS OF SOLITUDE (a picturesque gorge) I crossed it again and then went off the side roads to FETTERCAIRN … nice countryside and no cars at all.

The beautiful looking distillery was supposed to be open … it is clearly tuesday today and that is the day they are open from 10-17 according to the information on the door … I was there around 13:30, but no one was there 🤨

Fettercairn Distillery — should have been open … but was not 😥

Oh well, so I decided to have a quick snack and coffee at the local “grocer” anc went on to Laurencekirk. Little sad that place … so on and up the hill to the cairn where I made the video below.

360 degree from the hill east of Laurencekirk

Maybe better to go the additional 7km to St. Cyrus and finish the challenge a day earlier. Off I went and had to first deal with electrified fences that I had to circumvent.

And then I reached St. Cyrus after 43 km for the day … have a look at that awesome beach … scotland at its best!!

St. Cyrus beach and cliff
Reaching the NORTH SEA — TGO Challenge 2023 completed ✔️

So last time camping — 11 nights in total, 8 camping, 1 youth hostel, 1 pod, 1 hotel.

And tomorrow a mere 10km to MONTROSE passing by the fruit farm to have a strawberry tart.

After check-in with challenge control I will go to my hotel and later on attend the Challenge Dinner at the PARK HOTEL.

Thursday morning 07:47 train to Edinburgh and then the plane to Germany around noon local time.

DAY 10 — TGOC 2023 – Glen Clova to Tarfside

It was a really nice walking day and the last with some challenging hills to cover. It ended up to be 23km and quite a bit of up and down plus a lot of path searching and about 3km through peat and bog.

Last view into Glen Clova

I felt really good and strong and left rather late … passing many on the way up to Loch Brandy.

Loch Brandy … 500 altitude meters above Glen Clova

I did not take the standard route down to Loch Lee, but stayed high … amazing how many deer I saw … several hundred and sometimes only 100m away from me.

Sitting in the bog and having a short break … 5 minutes later the herd of deer passed (see video)

And eventually I reached the last cairn with a really nice view from Lochnagar to Mount Keen. Please see the video as well.

Panoramic view — from left to right — LOCHNAGAR range … Cairngorms (with the snow) … Mount Keen
Video view from the last hill top — Glen Lee to Mount Keen
Mount Keen — was there last year — most easterly Munro

After descending into Glen Esk I followed the road towards Tarfside and about 1km before my final stop I was greeted by 92 year old Angus, a retired sheep farmer, and his 3 legged dog. He forced me very friendly to have a cup of tea with him and to chat about live and other things 😀 … and he made me sign his guest book … incredibly full and very international, which makes me assume that this is his prime activity these days. Very friendly and entertaining … Angus later showed up at the BBQ on his mountain bike 🚵 and stayed pretty much till the end!!

Angus, the 92 yoa former sheep farmer and his 3 legged dog — had tea with him!

After Angus I reported into St. Drostan and had a bacon roll and a cake and subsequently went to the unofficial campsite with already 20 tents up and by the end of the day with probably around 35.

At 18:00 the local masons started their BBQ (I had two cheeseburger) and opened the bar. There were about 3 times as many people here as last year … which also caused the bar to close at around 22:00 … no more drinks available!

Was a very nice evening … quite cold at the end and during the night. My goal for tomorrow would be to go as far as possible … maybe even all the way to St. Cyrus … that is a long way (40km), but let’s see!

The Tarfside event
The Tarfside Masonic Lodge BBQ – probably around 50 challengers in and outside. Many I have met this or last year already …. amazing!
22:30 campsite … around 35 tents 🏕️